Heating
Q: How does a furnace work?
A: Heat is created by burning gas, oil or propane inside the furnace. Hot gases that are created pass through metal tubing called a heat exchanger and then out of your home through a vent pipe. A blower or fan then moves air in your home's duct system over the outside of the heat exchanger, which warms the air. The warm air is then circulated through your home.
Q: How is a furnace different from a boiler?
A: While the heating principle is exactly the same, a boiler heats water instead of air. That water is circulated by pump through a system of baseboards in the home. Some boilers are designed to create steam, which is then piped to radiators throughout the home .
Q: What is a "cracked" furnace?
A: The heat exchanger is the main component of your furnace. If the heat exchanger has a crack or a rust hole, combustion fumes (including carbon monoxide) can contaminate the air in your home. This is a potentially deadly situation and must be addressed IMMEDIATELY. Usually this necessitates replacement of the old furnace/heat exchanger with a new one. If you suspect any problems, turn the system off immediately and call us for service.
Q: On mild winter days my furnace runs in short blasts and my home keeps alternating between being too hot and too cold. How can I fix this?
A: A two-speed or variable-speed system is the perfect solution.
Two-speed furnaces can run on their lower speed up to 90% of the time. This means they operate more quietly and run for longer periods of time than single-speed furnaces. Longer operating periods mean fewer on/off cycles and much smaller temperature swings. Plus, when your system's fan runs for longer periods it prevents air "stratification" -- warm air rising to the ceiling and cold air settling on the floor. You get more consistent, even heat throughout your home.
Variable-capacity furnaces provide the ultimate combination of comfort, efficiency and performance. In addition to the benefits of two-speed furnaces, they offer "smart" motors that automatically adjust the volume and speed of air to provide the most efficient heating or cooling for your home, no matter how mild or cold the weather. They offer added electrical efficiency as well: The smart fan motors use less electricity than traditional motors. They operate so efficiently that they actually increase the efficiency rating of your central air conditioning system.
Q: What would be considered a "high-efficiency" oil heating system? What kind of savings can I look for by upgrading to this kind of system?
A: A high-efficiency heating system operates at 85% efficiency, which means that only 15% of the heat produced escapes from the chimney. Or, put another way, 85% efficiency will save you $20 out of every $100 you spend.
An older system that is only 65% efficient means that $35 of every $100 you spend on your heating bills is wasted. And the amount of wasted dollars can go even higher if you factor in escalating repairs and service costs, which typically increase as a system ages.
Upgrading your old system makes perfect sense. You’ll get superior comfort and significant savings.
We’d love to tell you more about the high-efficiency oil heating systems that we sell and service.
Q: At what temperature should I set my thermostat?
A: Different people feel comfortable at different temperatures. Pay less attention to the numbers on the thermostat display (or the position of the temperature indicator on a non-digital display) and more to how comfortable the room feels to you. When you feel comfortable, check the setting. That's the right temperature for you.
Q: Should I install a programmable thermostat?
A: Absolutely! Programmable thermostats are especially useful for people who are away from home at regular intervals. They allow for customized comfort settings around-the-clock, and they can cut heating and cooling costs by as much as 10%.
Q: What does SEER stand for?
A: SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. It is used to indicate the efficiency of air conditioning systems. The higher the SEER number, the more cooling you get per unit of energy. As of January, 2006, only units with a SEER ratio of 13 or higher will be allowed to be sold in the U.S. Today's cooling units are up to 40% more efficient than those made as recently as 10 years ago.
Q: Is it OK to “mix and match” air conditioning components of different efficiencies? Just because my compressor is on its way out, does it mean I have to replace my indoor unit as well?
It's never a good idea to mix and match a/c components of different SEER. Although you might save money initially by replacing only your outdoor unit with one of the new mandated 13 or higher SEER compressors and hooking it up to your 10 or 12 SEER system, in terms of long-term savings it just doesn't make sense. It's kind of like buying a brand new BOSE stereo set and hooking it up to your old, antiquated speakers. You're just not going to get your money's worth in terms of comfort and efficiency. You're better off paying a little extra up front because you'll be saving a lot more over time.
At DMO, we have the expertise to help you choose the right efficiency system for your home. For a no obligation evaluation, Click Here.
Q: My home has a forced-air furnace but no air conditioning. Can I add central air?
A: You bet! We can mount a cooling coil on top of the furnace and install a condensing unit outside. For a no- obligation evaluation, Click Here.
Q. My home does NOT have forced air heating, and therefore there is no ductwork. Can I still get central air conditioning?
A. Absolutely! Today simple, ductless air conditioning options make it possible to install a quiet, efficient air conditioning system in your home even if it doesn't have ductwork.
Ductless air conditioning systems consist of one or more indoor air-distribution units linked by refrigeration lines to an outdoor compressor. These flexible “hoses” can be positioned inside your walls and ceilings with a minimum of inconvenience. Installing ductless air conditioning costs a little more than standard central air-conditioning systems but much less than the cost of installing ductwork and a central air conditioner.
Q: My air conditioner uses Freon. Should I replace it?
A: You should at least start researching your replacement refrigerant options. It will become more costly to repair your central air system because Freon is being phased out, as part of the federal Clean Air Act.
To protect the ozone layer, no central air system with Freon, or R22, will be manufactured after 2010. Air conditioning systems with environmentally friendly refrigerants, such as R40A, are replacing old sysems that use Freon for cooling.
Q. What makes R10A better?
A. Unlike Freon, R410A is a chlorine-free refrigerant. It was developed as a result of concerns about the depletion of the ozone layer. Studies have shown that R410A is not only more environmentally sound than Freon, it is also superior in both performance and energy efficiency.
Q: Why does it cost so much to run an air conditioning system?
A: Air conditioners run on electricity and electricity is the most expensive energy source. Converting fuels like coal or natural gas into electricity is inherently inefficient. What's more, much of the original electricity generated at the power plant is lost during transmission over power lines. So, according to the U.S. Department of Energy, by the time it reaches your home, electricity is only 33% efficient on average.
Q: Do I really need a tune-up for my air conditioner?
A: An air conditioning tune-up and inspection will help catch service problems before they get you hot under the collar. Many breakdowns occur on the hottest day of the year—because that's when your A/C is under the most stress. And because a tune-up ensures that your system will run at peak efficiency, you'll lower your electric bills. A system that's running efficiently can save you as much as 30% on your cooling costs. So give us a call to schedule your annual tune up!
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